Pond
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q.
What materials are required to make a pond?
A.
Fish safe rubber liner (45 mil thick), a bio-mechanical filter (larger
ponds may use an additional one), pump, plumbing, lighting (optional),
fountain nozzle (optional).
Q.
How long does it take to make a pond?
A.
Two hours to one weekend.
Q.
Do you offer authorized installations?
A.
We have available qualified professional people to do installations.
We are a authorized dealer for Nursery Pro pond products.
Q.
Where can I build by pond and what concerns should I have when
thinking of putting in a pond system?
A.
Location of the pond can be virtually anywhere, however placement
should be somewhere it will be easily viewed and enjoyed such as
off a patio, deck or picture window. Remember a pond is something
that should be heard as well as seen. Before digging a pond, lay
out the shape with a garden hose so that you can visualize how it
will be viewed before digging. Remember to check for underground
utilities before construction begins. Another tip is to have the
pond 50% shaded so as to better control algae that could occur under
full sun.
Q.
How much does it cost?
A.
Pond supplies (not counting decorative rock or brick or labour)
can start as low as $ 125.00 (deck ponds) to over $2,000.00, however
for an average 10' x 12' pond can cost approximately $600.00.
Q.
Are the ponds 'fish friendly'?
A.
Our liners our certified fish friendly and pumps are oil free-water
lubricated.
Q.
How much maintenance is required?
A.
Weekly maintenance would be cleaning the skimmer to remove debris(such
as leaves). Periodic maintenance would be cleaning the filter media
on the lawn or driveway with a garden hose. You will observe the
necessity of this by reduced flow of the waterfall or stream. Shut
down of pond includes bringing the pump in for winter and storing
in a pail of water and draining the pond about 50%. Start up of
the pond would include removing all water from the pond, cleaning
with garden hose and then and then pumping out once again before
filling up for the season.
Q.
How much power does it take to run? Does it have to run all the
time?
A.
Our pumps are some of the most power efficient. Don't be fooled
by inexpensive pumps as they may be cheap to buy but cost a small
fortune to operate. Pumps must also be able to run continuously
to keep the water fresh and oxygenated- especially if you have fish
or plants. Our pumps start at as low as 13.5 watts to 750 watts.
At $.07 per kw hour this means it costs from $ 0.32 to $ 1.26 per
day. As you can see it a pump that costs a bit more but is more
efficient could soon pay for itself in less than a season.
Q.
Can the pond system be made with wood instead of stone? How about
other media?
A.
A pond containmant can be made of virtually any material ( wood,
stone, brick) as long as it is lined with a rubber or plastic liner.
Rubber is best as it is the most flexible and can contour to most
any shape.
Q.
What are the size constraints?
A.
You are limited only to the size and obstacles of your yard and
your budget.
Q.
What is the most expensive part to consider when considering
a pond system? (i.e.. length, height, winding, ...)
A.
The most expensive aspect of the pond is the liner. You can make
a pond look bigger by a having a smaller, narrower stream or streams
running into a catchment pond. Since the streams are made with remnants
of the liner roll (just like carpet), try to plan for having a 4'
to 5' remnant left over from your main catchment pond. Also remember
the larger the catchment pond the larger the pump you should have
to circulate the volome of water within the pond.......rule of thumb
- the volume of water in the pond should be turned over at least
once every two hours.
Q.
How do I calculate how much liner I require once I have my pond
layout?
A.
Take measurements at the widest and longest parts of the pond. Add
at least 1' -1.5' for liner overhang on four sides and add the depth
of the pond twice to each measurement. Example: A pond is 8' at
its widest point and 12' at its longest point and is 2' deep at
its deepest point. You allow 1.5 feet on each side for liner overhange
= 3'. You allow 2' for the liner to reach the total depth of the
pond and another 2' for it to come back up. You then do the same
for the length. Therefore you will require liner the size of: 8'
+ (1.5' + 1.5') + (2' + 2') x 12' + (1.5' + 1.5') + (2' + 2') =
15' x 19' . Since liner comes in rolls of 15' and 20' widths, you
would not have any remnants from a 15' roll but would have a 1'
remnant from a 20' roll that could easily be used up in the overhang.
You calculate the same method for streams except you will have to
add extra for a stream that curves as the liner can only flex so
much.
Q
How deep should I make the pond?
A.
At least 2 feet deep. This will make the water easier to maintain
as it will keep it cooler and the fish will appreciate it too.
Q.
What about plants?
A.
Plants are very benificial for maintianing the pond ecosystem and
are easy to care for. In winter simply put them in a dark plastic
bag and bring them inside and store in a cool dark place.
Q.
What else can I use with my pond to make it more attractive?
A.
Lighting - both underwater and above water shining on to it. The
pond will take on a completely different charm in the evening for
you to enjoy!
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